You have to make a little effort to reach Am Fuaran. From Ullapool, the road winds north and then west onto the Coigach Peninsula, eventually reaching the tiny settlement of Altandhu. Up on the hillside, overlooking the sea and Summer Isles, is a traditional pub that has been welcoming locals and travellers for almost 50 years.

Am Fuaran began in 1976, when Mr and Mrs Wilson transformed a nineteenth-century ruin into a bar. Today it remains in the family, run by their children Andrew and Catriona alongside Catriona’s husband David. Even its name belongs to the place: Am Fuaran means ‘the well’ in Scottish Gaelic, referring to the well at the bottom of the driveway that once provided water for passing travellers.

These days, the biggest reason to make the journey is the food.

Seafood is a particular speciality, taking advantage of what is landed around this remarkable stretch of coastline. Hand-dived Summer Isles scallops appear alongside locally caught whole lobster and dressed crab, with other fresh fish and seafood changing according to availability. The wider menu stays reassuringly hearty, bringing in dishes such as Highland beef, homemade pies and traditional pub favourites. Even the salads and herbs have a particularly short journey to the kitchen, grown in Am Fuaran’s own greenhouse.

Inside, everything feels pleasingly traditional: warm, cosy and unmistakably more Highland pub than polished destination restaurant. It is as much a local meeting place as somewhere for visitors to eat, which gives the room an atmosphere that would be difficult to manufacture. Outside, tables look west towards the Summer Isles, becoming an exceptional spot for dinner and a drink as the sun drops towards the sea.

Port a Bhaigh Campsite sits just below, making the walk home particularly easy for those staying there, while walkers, kayakers and travellers exploring Coigach have some extraordinary landscapes on the doorstep.

Am Fuaran is open throughout the year, and that matters. This isn’t a seasonal restaurant dropped into a beautiful location for visitors; it is part of the community around it. Come for the drive, the views and the history, but order the local seafood. That is where this little pub on the edge of the Highlands really comes into its own.