There cannot be many dining rooms in Scotland with a better outlook than Craig Millar @ 16 West End. Set right on the waterfront in St Monans, the restaurant looks across the working harbour and Firth of Forth towards the Isle of May, Bass Rock and the North Berwick coastline. On a clear evening, dinner can unfold against sailing boats, changing skies and one enormous coastal view.

Fortunately, the food gives you plenty of reason to look back at the table.

Chef-proprietor Craig Millar has been part of the restaurant’s story for decades. He originally joined what was then The Seafood Restaurant, before becoming a partner and eventually taking sole ownership in 2011, when Craig Millar @ 16 West End was born. His career here has brought numerous accolades, while the restaurant has maintained two AA Rosettes for 15 years and remains listed in the Michelin Guide.

Today, Craig’s cooking is modern Scottish, driven by the seasons and the best ingredients available, with local produce championed wherever possible. Seafood naturally has a strong presence given the restaurant’s East Neuk setting, but this is no longer simply a seafood restaurant. Menus move comfortably between fish, meat and carefully considered vegetarian dishes, with combinations designed around flavour rather than unnecessary complication.

Lunch offers a choice of three or four courses, while dinner becomes a longer five or six-course experience. The twice-baked St Andrews farmhouse cheddar soufflé has become something of a signature, while dishes might move through cured sea trout, halibut or duck before finishing with beautifully executed desserts. Matching wines can be added at dinner, with knowledgeable front-of-house service making the pairing part of the experience rather than an afterthought.

The setting changes with the seasons too. Summer opens up the waterfront terrace, while colder days make the old fisherman’s-style bar particularly inviting, with its fireplace, wood panelling and maritime character.

This is somewhere worth planning ahead for rather than stumbling across. Tables are limited, the pace is deliberately unhurried and reservations are strongly recommended. Come for a special occasion if you like, but regulars make an equally convincing argument for not waiting for one.