Twr y Felin feels like discovering a secret within a secret. Perched on the edge of Britain’s smallest city, this former windmill has been reimagined as Wales’ first contemporary art hotel -bold, intelligent, and full of surprises.

Step through its doors and into a gallery: over 250 original artworks, sculptures, and installations bring the spirit of Pembrokeshire’s coast, skies, and wild light to life. Inside, luxe minimalism meets Welsh warmth, think linen wallpapers, handcrafted furniture, and velveteen sofas, all unified by a quiet confidence that says, This is how it should be done.

There are 39 ensuite rooms, each its own retreat. Choose a Windmill Room with original curves and horizon-spinning views, or an Oriel Room with a terrace, Juliet balcony, or sea-facing window. The jewel in the crown is the three-storey Tyddewi Suite, nestled inside the old tower, offering a 360° observatory with sweeping panoramas of the St Davids peninsula.

The newest addition, Awen Spa, invites you to slow down and exhale. Guests can book from a range of spa packages or opt for a one-hour session,  perfect for those seeking an indulgent escape. Sink into the soothing whirlpool bath, boost circulation in the infrared sauna, and cleanse in the steam shower. With heated loungers, soft lighting, gentle music, and a private terrace, it’s an hour (or more) of pure rejuvenation.

Twr y Felin is also welcoming to all, with five dog-friendly rooms (£30 per dog, per night, including plush extras like towels, a cosy blanket, and natural handmade treats) and several family rooms for adults travelling with one child aged 3 to 11. Children aged 12 and over will need either a shared or separate room.

Food here makes a statement. Blas Restaurant, awarded three Rosettes, serves breakfast, an all-day bar menu, lunch, Sunday lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner, each plate a celebration of local produce.

And the location? Quietly brilliant. Just a ten-minute walk from Caerfai Bay, within reach of the cathedral, and directly opposite Oriel y Parc gallery and visitor centre. You’ll explore the coast, wander the city, and then,  inevitably, find yourself drawn back home to Twr y Felin.